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Sugarvine
Monthly restaurant column
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Taste Of The Med: Liverpool's
Cafe Culture
Summer may be well and truly buried under a thick layer of
jumpers and vests, but the café bars of Liverpool stand as a reminder of the
relaxed Mediterranean lifestyle.
Café culture really began to take hold
in the UK in the early 90s when greasy spoons cafes and pub lunches started
to give way to the more chic (and healthier) café bar. And in Liverpool,
whether you’re looking for an informal hideaway to share a panini and
cappuccino, or hankering after a location with all the elements of a
Parisian pavement café, there is a startling selection of venues to choose
from. And there’s one location in particular that’s not to be missed – Bold
Street.
The epitome of café cool is the sophisticated and cosmopolitan Life Café.
Situated in the heart of the city’s cultural and dining quarter, Life is
worth a visit for the décor alone. It’s set in an old ornate Post Office
(and merchant trading hall before that) and boasts a restaurant, café bar
and nightclub in one. The hip atmosphere and friendly service make this an
ideal place to stop off for Moules Mariniére (£4.95), Eastern Chicken
(marinated chicken with lemon and mint served on a bed of jasmine rice and
wilted bok choy served with minted sour cream, £7.95), Cous Cous (£8.95), or
simply Bangers and Mash (£8.95). Life also offers a diverse menu of pasta
(from £5.45), grills (from £7.95), and sandwiches (from £3.95) all freshly
prepared. And if you’re at all hungry your visit to Life must include the
Rack of Lamb (£10.95) – a delicious crusted rack of lamb, served pink, with
vegetable medley and redcurrant juice.
Tucked away further down Bold Street is Café Latino. Blink and you’ll
miss it and that would be a loss as this café has a diverse menu with some
truly adventurous choices. Wend your way up the stairs and you’ll find
Liverpool’s largest selection of garlic bread (including artichoke bread and
wild mushroom bread) from £1.80. The menu is ever-changing with special meal
deals aplenty – pasta of your choice with garlic bread and a drink for £5 or
two pizzas for £5. Café Latino is a great hideaway above the noise and
bustle of Liverpool’s main drag and perfect for an intimate lunch.
Soul Café is a true student haunt with daily specials and special
student deals – buy a baguette and get a free tea or coffee. People-watch
from the huge windows or take in the sounds of the in-house radio station
(Soul FM UK). This is definitely a cool place to kick back and relax. With
its incredible views of St. Philip’s Church, Café Tabac is the
perfect spot for perusing the Sunday papers with an espresso and croissant
to hand. Open 7 days until 10pm, the café attracts a wide clientele from
students to business folk and shoppers. Huge plates of tasty sandwiches from
£2.25 and two courses with a drink for £10 make it a very reasonable
alternative.
The seriously funky Caffé D’Oro is the ideal place for a hangover
cure with an excellent range of coffee – cappuccino, mocha, latte, conpanna
-- from £1.25. The choice is endless. A full English breakfast (two
sausages, two bacon, egg, tomatoes, beans, two toast, tea or coffee at
£3.25) should help ease the pain. Leaning over Bold Street, Café D’Oro has a
décor to die for –- bright, modern furnishing -- and the trendiest staff in
Liverpool. The extensive menu offers everything from pizzas (£3.50) and
pastries (£2.30) to baked potatoes (£2.90) and burgers (£3.30). It’s
frequented by the arty crowd and Liverpool’s beautiful people and is
definitely worth a visit.
Last but not least, right in the bustling centre of Bold Street is Coffee
Union. With its unmistakeable aroma of coffee, you can usually smell it
before you see it. It’s a modern café with minimalist décor and you can
expect to see a few famous faces here. As well as featuring every coffee
possible, the extensive menu has some good Paninis from £2.50 (Mozzarella,
sun dried tomatoes and basil, goats cheese and roasted vegetables, French
brie and bacon) and Croque Monsieur (£2.50).
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A Walk On The Wild Side
For those in search of food with a more unusual flavour,
Liverpool's restaurant scene offers a cornucopia of hidden gems. From rustic
Russian classics to the spicier Chilean and Mexican cuisine -- there’s
something in this city to suit everyone’s tastes. Unearthing these specialty
restaurants hidden away in the heart of the metropolis is definitely worth
the effort.
One of Liverpool’s more intriguing restaurants is
St Petersburg
on York Street, which proudly bills itself as the only ‘fully authentic
Russian restaurant outside of London‘. Hidden behind the facade of an
ex-gentlemen's club, the eatery offers a truly olde world experience with
its atmospheric lighting, chandeliers and enchanting Russian artefacts. The
menu offers enough choice to suit the most demanding of tastes. From Shee
Boyarskiye (sour cabbage and mushroom soup served in a Russian pot and
apparently a favourite of the Russian dukes), Black Russian caviar served
with Russian pancakes (£15), to the supreme Goviadina po Gusarsky (£17.95,
grilled fillet steak stuffed with mushrooms and Russian black bread filling
and baked to an ancient Russian recipe). After dinner, the friendly
management encourages customers to stay a while at the ‘Peter The Great’ bar
to sample the extensive range of Vodka, and enjoy the music and live
entertainment.
Five minutes walk from St Petersburg, on Hardman Street, is the acclaimed
Chilean restaurant Valparaiso. Established in 1985, Valparaiso is
another one-off -- the only Chilean restaurant in Liverpool. Décor is fresh
and cosmopolitan, with handcrafted wooden furniture and contemporary art
hanging in the nooks and crannies of the vast dining area. Chef and
proprietor Julio Arellano offers customers an impressive choice of
traditional and modern cuisine including typical Chilean dishes such as
Pastel de choclo (£10.95, minced beef topped with minced sweetcorn), Chicory
Asparagus Gratin (£9.50) and Vegetable Burritos (£8.80) for the veggies.
Seafood is popular with the fresh mussels (£4.90) reputedly the best this
side of the Med. Another experience worth sharing is the house speciality
Paella Valparaiso (with saffron rice and seafood, for two or more at £10.40
per person). Open Tuesday to Saturday (5pm-10.30pm), its city centre
location makes it the perfect place to begin a night out in the city. The
restaurant also hosts the Liverpool Spanish Circle each month for Spanish
speakers and welcomes anyone with an interest in Latin American countries.
If Mexican food is your bag, El Macho is a must. Based in Hope
Street, this is a lively hub of activity with mixed clientele and a great
atmosphere. Unlike many of the city’s restaurants, this venue is very much
in your face with its contrasting red, green and yellow décor. Look out for
the bright yellow El Macho truck outside the restaurant (pictured above).
The Mexican skillet with charcoal grilled chicken and steak, fried onions,
green peppers and scampi has to be the order of day. Perfect for parties and
celebrations, El Macho was recently awarded the ’International Award’ from
the Mexican Embassy.
The wonderfully traditional, well-established and intimate Spanish
restaurant Don Pepe is hidden away in Victoria Street. A surprisingly
large dining area greets customers, with heavy emphasis on simple Spanish
decor -- roughly white-washed walls, simple candles, terracotta tiles. The
seating is at basement level, giving the restaurant an air of exclusivity.
House specialities here include Suckling Pig (£12.95) and Sea Bass (£13.95).
Whatever your tastes run to -- tapas, tacos, sushi, caviar –- Liverpool has
plenty of choice to tempt the adventurous.
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The Lower Place
Strangely enough, Liverpool’s ‘ best-kept secret’ is housed
in the city’s most recognisable music venue. Situated beneath the
Philharmonic Hall (home to Liverpool's renowned Royal Philharmonic
Orchestra),
The Lower Place
is a tourist and celebrity magnet which has played host to that most famous
of tables for two -- the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh. It also provides an
upmarket dining experience to less stellar guests -- theatre-goers,
weekenders, food enthusiasts and the business crowd.
The Lower Place was originally intended just for pre-concert dining, but
eventually gave in to demand and became one of the hottest eateries on the
circuit. It has picked up numerous awards -- Merseyside Tourism Awards '98
Restaurant of the Year, Triple Award Winner '97, Four Award Winner '98, Plat
D'Or Award '99, Regional Manager's Award '99. Executive Chef Paul Askew
says, “It’s all about passion for food and my team work hard at ensuring
excellence.”
Not surprisingly, the menu screams style with contemporary international
offerings ranging from Hand-made Rabbit and Thyme Sausage to Roasted Sucking
Pig. Mouth watering choices include handmade fresh ravioli of crab and
asparagus with parsley and tomato cream sauce, or layered pork saltimbocca
terrine scented with sage. For mains, check out the Tournedos Rossini, or
rack of lamb stuffed with black pudding rolled in oregano crumb. If your
mission is to impress, then this is the place to do it. The art deco and
soft minimalist style of the restaurant simply add to its air of exclusivity
Evenings give way to a blur of activity and reservation is highly
recommended as the restaurant can be booked up for weeks in advance. Hope
Street is fast becoming Liverpool's premier dining quarter and The Lower
Place is very much at the hub of this regeneration. Whether you're going to
a concert at the Phil, or just enjoying a night out on the town, a visit is
highly recommended. Extended opening times, seasonal a la carte menus and
daily specials have all helped maintain an unrivalled reputation. The Lower
Place is open for lunch (Tue-Fri from noon to 3pm), dinner (Wed-Sat from 5pm
to 10pm) and every Philharmonic Hall concert night.
The Lower Place
Manweb Suite
Philhamonic Hall
Hope Street
Liverpool
0151 210 1955
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Eating Healthy: Vegetarian Food In Liverpool
For the finest in vegetarian food, you
really don’t have to search too far on Merseyside. Many of the best
vegetarian restaurants are practically next door to one another – ranging
from the (not so) far reaches of ultra-trendy Albert Dock to the city
centre. And banish all thoughts of nuts and lentils – vegetarian food has
come a long, long way from its image of tasteless stodge served up by ageing
hippies.
Albert Dock offers a menagerie of choice restaurants and café bars, not to
mention alternative shops, an art gallery and the Beatles’ museum. One of
its most popular restaurants, located in the heart of the historical
waterfront, is Mister M’s (pictured above). It’s worth a visit
for its bare-brick charms and great views alone. But if you’re looking for a
healthy feast, the specialist vegetarian menu (which has to be ordered in
advance) is well worth the planning. For £25 per head you can choose from a
sumptuous menu of starters (Aubergine and Tahine Pate, Minted Spinach and
Feta Cheese Parcels, Pea Pancakes), main meals (Baked Goats Cheese Soufflés
in Mustard Croutes, Polenta Cakes, Sweet Pepper & Sundried Tomato Lasagne,
Spicy Vegetable Fajita), and an excellent choice of desserts (Spiked Lemon
Sorbet, Saffron Poached Peaches & Pears, Banana Rum & Coconut Cakes).
Choices, choices and not a lentil in sight.
If you’re keen to try something a little more exotic check out Ying Wah and
Yuet Ben. Ying Wah on Woolton Street is a classy, intimate Chinese
with an impressive green selection. The vegetarian banquet offers a barrage
of mouth-watering options including Vegetarian Spring Rolls, Spring Onion
Pancakes and Crispy Seaweed, Fried Mixed Vegetables with Cashew Nuts and
Black Bean Sauce, Stir fried Bean Curd & Broccoli, Braised Chinese
Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots and Water Chestnuts (highly recommended) at £12 a
head. Ying Wah is open 7 days a week from 5pm-11pm and has a takeaway
service. Yuet Ben (literally ‘honoured guest’ and pictured on home
page) has been in business 30 years now and was Liverpool’s first Peking
restaurant. It’s right in the heart of Chinatown, five minutes walk from
Hope Street, and has an extremely ‘traditional’ feel to it with a relaxing
cream colour scheme and simple Oriental furnishings. Owners Terry and
Theresa Lim have created a warm, friendly atmosphere where nothing is too
much trouble. There are two main vegetarian menus with a variety of
inspiring dishes. For two or more at £11 per head you can choose from
starters - Shredded Tofu with Pancakes & Relishes, Spring Rolls & Savoury
Triangles, main meals – Deep Fried Mushrooms, Three Delicacies, Mixed
Vegetables, Hot Spiced Vegetables and Deep Fried Tofu.
For veggie-student nirvana, look no further than The Egg. Tucked away
up three flights of stairs, well off the beaten track, The Egg is the
definitive student meeting place with an obvious bohemian influence. The
restaurant is split into two areas – one strictly dining with romantic
candle lighting and comfortable tables, the other a light and airy café
which doubles as an art gallery for local artists. With a piano in the
corner, and games and books obscured by heaps of plants there’s plenty to
keep you occupied. The Egg doesn’t have a license but they are more than
happy for you to bring your own alcohol for a £1 corkage fee. The menu is a
fusion of vegan and vegetarian specialities at very reasonable prices. Blue
Cheese & Red Onion or Aubergine and Mozzarella Pizza from £3.10 and starters
such as Leak & Cream Cheese Quiche at £2.90 are popular choices. The Egg
also offers an excellent Sunday lunch for just £5 including Nut Roast with
Cranberry Sauce, Parsnips and other vegetables. It’s open Monday–Saturday
from 10am to 10pm and on Sundays from 11am to 4.30pm.
Close to LIPA and the Philharmonic Hall, on Faulkner Street, is the
Number Seven Café. A favourite venue for students and business folk, and
far enough off the main road to maintain a more exclusive and intimate
atmosphere, it offers a great range of vegetarian choice at pocket-friendly
prices. Number Seven mainly works from a specials board, which changes
regularly. A variety of vegetarian meals are always on offer from Roast
Vegetable Pasta Bake to Spanish Omelettes and Feta Cheese Salads. All main
courses are £7 and the dessert menu has a variety of pastries, ice creams
and cakes (from £2.50). With its huge windows looking out onto the cobbled
street, you feel a million away from the hustle and bustle of the city
streets.
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60 Hope Street
Not so much tucked away as full frontal in the Georgian
Quarter, 60 Hope Street is difficult to miss. Located between the Anglican
and Roman Catholic cathedrals, its grandiose design and bright blue door
help to make it the epitome of style. The magnificent, Grade II structure
was originally built as the Private Chauffeurs Club -- a meeting place for
professional chauffeurs -- and can lay claim to a rich 200-year history.
Brothers Gary and Colin Manning combined their experience in hotel catering,
customer relations and pubs to set up
60 Hope Street
and their high standards have been acknowledged -- by the Good Food Guide,
by Lancashire Life, and with 2 AA Rosettes. “We’ve strived to be a quality
restaurant,” says Gary. “London is too crowded with restaurants and I
realised there was a good opportunity to come home to Liverpool.”
The restaurant is located upstairs with an unpretentious, sophisticated
cafe-bar in the basement. Upstairs is a mixture of antique wooden flooring,
subdued lighting, cream walls and sassy sweeping staircases, while the
cafe-bar has a more casual feel, contrasting colours giving it a
Mediterranean ambience. The restaurant menu is essentially modern European
but with a vast array of dishes blending influences from around the world.
There is a mesmerising choice: from starters like Duck Breast served with
Onion Bhaji and Mango Chutney or Black Forest Ham (£6.95) to mains such as
Roast Cannon of Lamb or Seared Scallops (£14.95) this is top quality
cuisine.
For those who love to indulge their sweet tooth, there’s a painfully good
choice of desserts. The only problem is having to choose from the Savarin
with Caramelised Apples & Apple Sorbet (£4.95) and Roast Pineapple Praline
Parfait and Shortbread Biscuits (£4.95). For something completely different,
try the Deep Fried Jam Sandwich with Carnation Milk Ice cream (£4.95). The
restaurant is open Monday to Friday 12-2.30pm (for lunch) and Monday to
Saturday 7-10.30pm (for dinner). The most important recommendation is to
book in advance.
For light bites or more substantial lunches, the comfortably chic basement
café is the best bet. Choose from a range of Mezes, wraps and salads or get
serious with Lamb Kofta and Rib eye Steak. The cafe is open Monday to
Saturday 12-10.30pm and is a great place to stop off for a cappuccino, a
glass of wine or one of the numerous cocktails on offer.
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Dining Out In Southport
From the picturesque tree-lined streets of the town centre to
the pavement cafes of the outskirts, Southport is a food town. For some,
it’s the culinary capital of the northwest -- and with close to 200
restaurants and cafes to choose from offering a wide range of international
cuisines, it’s hard to argue. Lord Street, with its endless parade of pubs,
clubs, restaurants, cafes and specialist shops, brightened with splashes of
floral colour, is at the heart of the action.
It’s safe to say that Casa Italia (pictured above)
is a Lord Street legend. In business for a quarter of a century now, this
most Italian of Italians is decked out just like an Italian street from the
1950s, complete with shops, wheelbarrows and bicycles. The list of celebrity
guests that have visited over the years is as long as your arm and includes
plenty of footballers from the red half of Merseyside. The menu doubles up
as a newsletter (Il Messaggero di Casa Italia -- which is a nice touch) and
it includes all the pasta and pizza favourites you might expect plus a good
choice of meat and fish (the fish comes fresh every morning from Liverpool).
The wine list starts with house wine at £9.95 and stretches to Dom Pom at
£95.95 with plenty of choices in between. Casa Italia can also boast a
hatful of awards, no doubt due in part to owner Erasmo Grossi’s philosophy
that ‘man should live to eat, not eat to live.’
Another Lord Street option is Roberto’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria,
which has also won awards for both its service and food. Prices are very
reasonable in this traditional Italian -- antipasta (from £3.95), Contorni
(Garlic Bread from £1.95), Pizza (from £4.95), Insalate (salads from £5.65),
and an amazing choice of Pasta Speciale (from £6.35). Roberto’s also has a
takeaway menu and a good-value Super Monday Club (a 2-course meal of Gambas,
Garlic Mushrooms or Ribs followed by Sirloin Steak or Beef Stroganoff,
Chicken Boscaola or Grilled Salmon at just £12.95).
Spice Paradise, on Union Street, is the only Balti House in Southport
and is a popular haunt for the locals (always a good sign). If you’re up for
a challenge, try the Wings Of Fire for starters (chicken wings seasoned with
exotic spices, marinated in saffron & masala sauce, half char-grilled in a
tandoori, then stir fried with a sharp sauce, £2.75). Be warned, these are
seriously hot. The a la carte choice is large at Spice Paradise and includes
a good selection of vegetarian dishes and banquets (including the Vegetarian
Thali at £8.95).
If modern European is more your thing then visit Francisca’s and
prepare yourself for an extremely warm welcome from owners Omie and Kay
Naidoo. Francisca’s has a great party atmosphere and is the ideal venue to
start an evening in Southport. The menu is adventurous (vegetarians look
away) -- from Frogs Legs and Snails on the Connoisseur Menu (three courses
£16.95), to Black Pudding and Monkfish on the Gourmet menu (two courses
£9.95 or three courses £11.95). There’s also a good value 3-course Sunday
Lunch Menu for £9.95. Just down the road in quaint Churchtown is Botanic
Bistro, run by chef patron Paul Lang and his partner Claire. The bistro
offers French and modern British dishes in an intimate dining room with a
distinct 1930s feel to it. Try the Botanic Shoulder Of Lamb (£13.95) or the
Baked Tian Of Smoked Fish (£6.25). During the week, there’s a 2-course table
d’hote menu available with lots of choices for £11.95.
For a real contemporary dining experience, check out the Warehouse
Brasserie on West Street. The restaurant is set on two levels and the
high ceilings, soft cream walls and wooden floors create a comfortably
cosmopolitan feel. Reservation is highly recommended as The Warehouse is
extremely popular, particularly with the bright young things of Southport
(apparently this is the favourite restaurant of popstar ‘Louise’). The
restaurant aims to create ‘tastes from around the World under one roof’ and
these influences can be seen in the diverse range on offer –- Cornish Crab &
Mango Tian (£6.95), Moroccan Lamb Meatballs (£5.50), Southport Shrimp
(£6.50), and the incredible Slow Cooked Ham Hock (£11.95). The menu changes
on the first day of each month. The Warehouse also offers a takeaway service
with a difference. Just call with your requirements and not only will Chef
Marc Verite (Michelin-starred restaurants, Granada T.V., Live Challenge '99,
Cook Book, etc) prepare your meal but he will also give you full cooking
instructions and advise you on presentation, and even what wine to serve.
Your guests need never know!
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Read More LIVE Liverpool Features:
60 Hope Street
A Walk On The Wild Side
A Taste Of The Med: Liverpool's Cafe Culture
The Lower Place
Eating Healthy: Vegetarian Food In Liverpool
De Coubertin's
Blundell Street
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